Summer in Parks - Part II: Redwoods & Crater Lake
Welcome back for Part Duex! For those who missed - here’s Part I of my June spent in Lake Tahoe and Lassen Volcanic. Now we hit the coast and… farmland? Let’s get one thing straight upfront: the Redwoods are as breathtaking, magical, and dream-like as they seem. I was blissfully looking up the entire time. Craned necks, full hearts, can’t lose right??? Let’s lace up our hiking boots and venture in.
Leaving the volcanoes in the rear view, Ashley and I took all the picturesque twists and turns that brought us directly to the northern coast of California. The sun was making it’s way down as we made our way up to Orick. Population 300ish. A kitschy Bigfoot souvenir shack, tiny elementary school, one mini market, and the fabulous Roosevelt Base Camp awaited. There are hardly any accommodations around the National Park unless you’re camping so choices were slim but we really lucked out with this amazing, family-owned, renovated treasure.
Something that surprised me about the Redwoods were just how close together all must-see spots were. Listing it all out, we covered so much but with everything within a reasonable distance, it didn’t feel exhausting. Our 2 days consisted of: Fern Canyon Trail, Gold Bluffs Beach, Newton B. Drury Highway, Drive-Thru Tree (Klamath), Lady Bird Johnson Grove, Jedidiah Smith State Park and Enderts Beach. It’s so difficult to choose a favorite spot but if I had to recommend just visiting 1 to anyone, it would be Fern Canyon (for all the movie buffs, this is where Jurassic Park was filmed!). It was such a peaceful, unforgettable hike with a surprise guest appearance from two elk! I have often described a kind of quiet that doesn’t come by often, and especially in popular Parks. But man, did I hit the mother load on Fern Canyon. Such special moments in complete solitude. Soft, mossy greens below and a thick aroma of redwood and pine was the most beautiful setting during the rising of the sun. It was the most wonderful kind of warmth.
Since Orick provided no food options, we hit up Trinidad - a coastal town about 20 minutes away that is literally where I want to retire. Little beach shops and a handful of restaurants make up this, seemingly unheard of, gem. I expected this entire area to be overcast and foggy and it was none of those things. Rainy season for this area is typically December - April so June was ideal for northern California. My favorite Star Wars movie is Return of the Jedi so walking amongst the grounds of where it took place was beyond cool. Hearing the waves and getting whiffs of salty air from the ocean while in the forest was some kind of wonderful. This area of the state isn’t easy to get to… there’s no nearby airport and as mentioned before, the accommodations are slim, but it’s truly so worth it.
Crescent City is the closest to the Redwoods is in the very far corner of the state which was convenient for our route out of the area and into Oregon. Which brings us to… Crater Lake!
Crater Lake National Park
You wouldn’t know it but the surrounding area of this National Park is allllll cattle ranches. Which is exactly where we stayed! Our host had three cabins on their property and we set up home in this one. While this was truly in the middle of nowhere, we were given a tip by a few friendly folks in the Park to hit up Jo’s Market. This doesn’t look like much on the outside, but the inside is full of all organic groceries (think a mini Whole Foods). Besides that, there is nothing and I mean nothing for miles. Coming up into the south side of Crater Lake, the routine lovely weather was still holding. Upper 60’s, sunny, and a whole day set up for some great hikes. However, Mother Nature had truly thrown a curveball for this area in the prior days. A ranger informed us that there was heavy snow that entire week and the day we were there was the first nice day they’ve had in a while. Good timing except not so much as the snow blocked every single hiking trail & road. All except one.
We spent the morning walking around the visitor center, giant gift shop, and lounging on the rocking chairs on the front porch of the historical Crater Lake Lodge. The one trail that was available to us was the Discovery Trail which luckily provided a view of Phantom Ship! With the snow cutting down our time significantly, we leisurely made our way out of Crater Lake. A quick note about Crater Lake: this place is beyond fascinating. The lake is a result of an imploded volcano and it’s vibrant blue water is solely provided by rain and melted snow. Legends and lore abound ‘round here and it’s worth the stop if you’re ever in Oregon. The following morning we headed out of the area but not without a stop at the famous Beckie’s toward the northern part of the outskirts of the Park. Beckie’s is best known for their pies and warm hospitality and is most definitely worth the stop before leaving this area.
As a bonus to our Oregon adventures, we decided to detour to Bend to visit the last Blockbuster on earth. It’s fully operational and has a shrine of the 90’s set up inside. It was so nostalgic and truly felt like time stood still! While folks were checking in and out DVD’s, we were taking a walk through childhood. After that quick stop, we made our way to our final destination of Eugene where we stayed at the Graduate!
“The redwoods, once seen, leave a mark or create a vision that stays with you always.”
-John Steinbeck